Fit Check: Railcar Donna

Hey, everyone! I’m here today with a highlight on a great pair of women’s denim: the Railcar Fine Goods Donna fit.

Donnas, pictured here in a special brown selvedge offered earlier this year.  

Donnas, pictured here in a special brown selvedge offered earlier this year.  

A good amount of stretch, and a narrow leg opening create a nice skinny jean.  

A good amount of stretch, and a narrow leg opening create a nice skinny jean.  

This is a fit that is almost universally flattering. The high waist tapers in and helps excentuate the smallest part of your waist. The pockets are wide set and placed in a way that makes even the flattest of butts look nice ;)

 

This is a true pair of “skinny” jeans. They are very slim throughout and have a great amount of stretch that helps the fabric form to your body. 

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The Donnas are now offered in a few different options: a light blue red-line selvedge, a non-selvedge raw, and a dark indigo red-line selvedge. All of the fabrics that the Donnas are available in have a good amount of stretch, and I personally recommend sizing down a full size in order to maintain the tight/ skinny fit. 

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Did I mention that they make your butt look great? 

If you are interested in the Donnas, or any of the other fits, but don’t have a chance to try them on locally, give them a shout! They are the nicest people and always so willing to help!  

 

Railcarfinegoods.com

@railcarfinegoods  

@taylorofrailcar

 

 

Thanks for reading!  

-Bryce

Let Us Introduce : Melodee Malazarte and Her Brand Home Pacifico

One of our goals with this site was to introduce amazing women in this field of denim and heritage. Makers or ladies we find to be amazing. So, here's our first power woman! Let us introduce Melodee, super rad lady from Australia with pretty amazing brand too. Read all about her and her brand Home Pacifico below and go give her a follow. And let us just let you know that at least half of BB is lusting hard after few pieces from Home Pacifico! :D

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Name: Melodee Malazarte

Location: Melbourne, Australia

What's your occupation? 

Designer and owner of HOME Pacifico label. You’ll also catch me at ‘Heffernan & Haire’ and ‘Pickings & Parry’ stores and DJing in Melbourne.   

If you're not lucky enough to to be working it now, what is your dream job? 

I’m working on my dream lifestyle! Running my own business and being able to create my own schedule is really important to me. Managing all areas of HOME Pacifico is a challenging and rewarding work in progress, as any small business owner will attest to, and the design and production process and exploring different ways of making things is always fun.  

I’ve also been a retail professional for 15 years - working on the shop floor, to corporate and multi-store management. I love setting up retail spaces, and meeting new people everyday. H&H and P&P to me are the epitome of the ideal retail experience, from quality product, environment to vibe - it’s all there. The team is like a family, and I know that is really rare. And as a DJ, getting to play music and travel for music is pretty special. That’s a few dreams jobs right there!        

How did you find your personal style?

Originally through bgirling and hip hop culture, for sure. I collected sneakers for a long time, and always had to have the fresh fits to match. I was lucky to come up at a time when streetwear was actually an authentic subculture. During that time I got into selvedge and raw denim, and working at brands like Vans and Carhartt WIP were solid introductions to appreciating the importance of heritage, history and brand integrity. 

I think of style in terms of it being a personal uniform. I keep my wardrobe minimal so I wear a few key pieces daily. Good denim or chinos and a fitted crew neck tee is my daily uniform. Most of my clothes are tailored to some degree. I was spending as much money on alterations as the actual garments, so I learnt to sew, and made friends with tailors so I could stand over their shoulder and watch as they worked and then customise my own clothes.

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I also travel to Indonesia a bit and over the years have built relationships with tailors, who make a lot of my clothes. Some of the pieces I’ve had made also act as samples for Home, so not only have I been able to have these one-off pieces made but I’m able to then field test fabric and construction at the same time.

What is playing in your radio/headphones right now?

Last 3 tracks:

Kaiit - OG Luv Kush Pt 2

Mojo Juju - Native Tongue 

Teyana Taylor - Rose in Harlem

If you could eat one food for the rest of your life, what would it be?

Anything made with love and shared with friends. But y’know, I wouldn’t be mad at lifetime tacos.     

What's your favorite way to spend your free time?

Doing anything that benefits my health and happiness… chilling with my girls, going for a ride about town on our motorbikes, running my dog, a boxing session or having a bbq with the crew.   

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Tell us one thing that makes you “you”?

All of the things. 

Where did you get the idea to start your own brand? Your "why" behind the brand?

Home came from a lack of available clothing to suit my own needs. I started planning the label a few years ago when I was traveling a lot, mostly to go to bboy/bigrl jams in Australia and internationally. Being amongst bgirls (breakdancers), it was so common for us to have trouble finding clothing that fit us right, that looked fresh and could withstand so much physical movement. 

Hanging out with girls who ride fixed gear bikes, skateboarders, motorbike babes, artists and women who work in heavy duty industries, I’ve always heard the same thing - we want clothing that fits and looks good. We often buy menswear for the heavier fabric and better construction, knowing that it’s not going to fit right. The idea of Home is to create long lasting utilitarian clothing for women who don’t always suit the model of seasonal fast fashion consumers. The exciting bi-product of that is that we also get to connect with and learn these amazing stories of women who have similar interests.

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How did you come up with the name?

Home represents something that everyone can relate to and is deeply personal. It can refer to a place, a community, a feeling or a sense of belonging. My background is Filipino-Australian and I have close ties to a lot of areas in and around the Pacific Ocean. ‘Pacifico' is in reference to my connection to this region of the world. The products I make are proudly made within the region. For the past year I’ve been working with a few small workshops in Indonesia who specialise in traditional crafts - for example the team of women in Gianyar, Bali who use wooden looms to weave our cotton bandanas and dye by hand with organic indigo. It’s easy to think that these processes only happen in places like Japan but they’ve existed all throughout this region for a long time and that’s something I want to communicate! So in naming the brand - Home is about personal style, and Pacifico is about representing the region that it comes from.  

What are your goals when it comes to your brand?

To be a go-to for quality womenswear. It’s in its infant stages right now, operating online and with upcoming releases certainly looking to expand and get into some great retailers in Australia and internationally.  

Who is your brand made for, who you see wearing your pieces?

Women doing rad things who need reliable, versatile and well made clothing. Denim babes will be happy to know the first cut of our 14oz Japanese selvedge denim will be ready later this year!  

Be sure to give her a follow, here's all the links you need to be informed!

IG @melolani / @homepacifico

Website https://homepacifico.com/

 

What is raw denim and why the hell do I care?

That’s such a great question! The short answer is: non-washed denim fabric and you really don’t have to. If I left it at that, this would be a very short and very boring article. So I’ll assume that you are here to learn and that you really want to care. Thank you for indulging me.

Let’s start with what makes denim, well, denim. I’m not going to get super technical, because frankly, I’d just be copying from some of the other great articles that have taught me. Folks like Heddles and @Denimhound have taught me the ropes, and if you are interested in more than the basics of the fabric, I really do suggest looking into their already beautifully written pieces.  

Dark blue thread is the warp. White "underside" is the weft. Shown here with red line selvedge. 

Dark blue thread is the warp. White "underside" is the weft. Shown here with red line selvedge. 

Denim is a woven fabric consisting of two directions of sturdy cotton weave, the warp and the weft. When talking blue jeans, the weft remains white and passes under the indigo dyed warp threads. What makes each individual material unique, is the pattern and method in which the weft and warp threads are woven. When talking other colored denim… well, you get the idea. No matter the color of the threads, think of the weft as the bottom or inside of the jeans, and the warp as the top or outside.

Denim material is most often categorized by weight. Weight of fabric is determined  by weighing one square yard of the finished woven material. There are all kinds of weights; from some of the lightest (mostly women's stretch denim) 8oz, to the heaviest 32oz.

Let’s get to the nitty-gritty folks! What makes raw denim raw? Simply that it hasn’t touched water. It’s that simple. Raw denim is denim in its most natural state. It also comes in two states of being beyond that, sanforized and un-sanforized. The cotton yarn of sanforized denim has been steamed to pre-shrink the yarn before it’s woven in order to eliminate shrink when you *eventually* wash them. Un-Sanforized has not been pre-shrunk or treated in anyway and will shrink when they touch water (think Levis 501 Shrink-to-fit).

The jeans I am wearing are Railcar Spikes X001 (men's jean's). They are a bit tight, but I like them that way, sue me. 

The jeans I am wearing are Railcar Spikes X001 (men's jean's). They are a bit tight, but I like them that way, sue me. 

If you’re in need of a some stretch in your jeans, and I don’t blame you although I will eventually try to convince you that 100% cotton jeans are the master jean, then consider how much stretch you want for the fit you are trying to obtain. 1% provides enough stretch to give some flexibility without being too body-hugging. 2% will form to your body and be much more fitted. 3-4% stretch jeans are VERY form fitting and are often give moderate body contouring.

All of this information won’t do much for you trying to buy a pair of jeans unless you also consider the construction, fit, and placement of all the parts of the jeans. The best thing I can tell you is to first find a pair that you really love as a basis for measurements going forward. Once you dive in to the denim world, your wants, needs, and requirements for fit are likely to change, I know mine sure did, but starting with your current favorite pair is perfect.

Pockets are high enough and placed wide enough to create a flattering fit. Considering these are made for men, I feel lucky. 

Pockets are high enough and placed wide enough to create a flattering fit. Considering these are made for men, I feel lucky. 

What I find most important for fit is rise, waist, thigh, hip, and leg opening measurements. This is going to insure that the pants even fit your body! So duh, most important for sure! Also to consider knee width measurement (too wide would look baggy, too narrow and you now stand forever) and my personal most important, back pocket size and placement. Pocket placement can seriously make or break a pair for me. I tend to mostly wear jeans made for men, so I am very conscious of making sure I don’t look like I’m wearing a diaper underneath my jeans!

My biggest suggestion for getting into raw denim is take chances! If you can get into a store in person, do that. Go in and ask questions and try things on. You may be surprised at what you like and what fits you.  If you can’t go in person, get real up close and personal with your measurements, and find a store that has a good return policy!

I believe in you all! Happy shopping and I hope you learned anything at all.

                                         

-Bryce